Dometic Miracable 33C

You can determine this information by noting the following:

a) Appearance of the cable
b) Part number of the cable
c) Engine(s) and controls on which the cable is used

Take a look at the existing cable. Usually, the part number is stamped in white on the existing cable's plastic outer casing.

If you can't locate it or read the part number, check to see what brand of control and brand/year of engine is on the boat now.

With this information, you can determine which cable you need from the identification/application charts in the catalog, which help you identify cables by appearance, part number, control type, and brand/engine type.

In most cases, Dometic offers two performance grades: Standard and Xtreme. For maximum performance, we recommend our Xtreme cables.

Once the part number of the replacement control cable is known, measure the one you have now if at all possible. Be sure to measure carefully - the most frequent reason for the return of a new cable is that the incorrect length was measured.

In order to determine that, you need to know exactly which brand(s) of engine and control head are on the boat.

Mercury/Mariner/Force and OMC/Johnson/Evinrude engines usually require an OEM-type cable when using those engine makers' control heads. OEM-type cables have special end fittings designed to connect to the control and engine with minimal hardware.

Generally, all other engines and controls use a "universal" (3300/33C-type) control cable. Universal cables have 10-32 threaded ends and often require extra hardware to connect to the engine and control. Contact the engine manufacturer if you need details on the hookup.

Diesel and twin station vessels may use a larger diameter (4300/43 or 6400/64-type) universal cables; 4300/43-type cables have 1/4-28 threaded ends and 6400/64-type cables have 5/16-24 threaded ends.

This depends on two things:

a) Are you doing a first-time control cable installation?

For outboards: Measure from control along an unobstructed cable routing to the center of the outboard. Then add four feet to allow for a loop that provides unrestricted engine movement. If it does not end on a foot length, then round up to the next foot and order that cable length.

For sterndrives and inboards: Measure from control along an unobstructed cable routing to shift and/or throttle connection. If that length does not end on a foot length, then round up to the next foot and order that cable length.

We suggest the following periodic maintenance be performed at least twice a season:

a) Check overall operation for proper gear engagement, full and idle throttle, and overall feel.
b) Visually inspect control head, control cable, as well as engine and transmission cable attachment points for proper tightness of fasteners, correct operation of all moving parts, worn or broken items, cable chafing or misalignment, etc.
c) Do not lubricate core wire (moving wire inside the casing). If the cable operates stiffly, replace it.
d) Keep cable ends dirt- and corrosion-free.
e) Lubricate pivot points and sliding parts of the control with good quality, water-resistant grease.

When to replace a cable or connection hardware:

a) Excessive free play felt at the control - check the cable connection hardware and replace any worn parts
b) Visual inspection shows signs of chafing, breakage, or bent, loose, or worn parts
c) The cable is stiff (hard to push or pull with two fingers)

Never attempt to repair a cable. Always replace a malfunctioning cable. A cable cannot be properly repaired in the field and must always be replaced as an assembly. Attempting to repair a cable can result in control system failure, leading to personal injury and/or property damage.